Dovlatov Museum

What have I
earned?

The play «What have I earned?» — three actors over an open suitcase in Dovlatov’s room
No. 23 · Rubinstein
The play

A play based on stories from Sergei Dovlatov’s «The Suitcase» — in the only genuine, lived-in writer’s flat in Russia, communal apartment 34 on Rubinstein Street. The floorboards creak where they creaked in his day. The stage is three rooms and three corridors — more than half of the communal flat, the neighbours’ rooms included. Three things from the suitcase — a shirt, a hat, gloves. Three fates.

Ticket2495 ₽
When9 performances a year
Seats23 guests
MusicLiveaccordion · trumpet · guitar
All formats

Full prepayment on the website — via SBP or Yandex Split, receipt by email · cancel 24 hours ahead for a full refund

A guest’s voice
«You sit half a metre from the actor, real neighbours live behind the wall, and at some point you stop understanding whether this is still a play or simply somebody’s evening on Rubinstein Street».
from a review on Yandex Maps

Theatre in Dovlatov’s flat — the real one, still lived in

This is not a stage and not an auditorium. It is a room in a working communal flat at 23 Rubinstein Street. Twenty-three people are so close that the actor passes within arm’s reach, and there is nowhere to look away — you have to watch.

The things do the acting. Each one drags a story behind it: how it was tracked down, who it was borrowed from, what was paid for it. The stories are funny right up to the second they turn sad — Dovlatov knew how to make that turn, and here it is not softened. You will not find out «how it all ends». You will find out what it is like when everything you have earned fits into one suitcase. Venues like this can be counted on one hand: we have put together an honest guide to St Petersburg’s unusual theatres.

The play’s climax: an actor on the shoulders of two other actors
Item 023-06 · The climax: the audience two steps away

What to expect

01Three things — three fatesOf the eight things in «The Suitcase», three are on stage: the shirt, the hat, the gloves. Behind each one — what was paid for the shirt, who the hat was borrowed from, where the gloves came from.
02Actors half a step awayNo stage was built: they perform in the writer’s room, at arm’s length. The cast are actors from St Petersburg theatres, from the Maly Drama Theatre to the Komissarzhevskaya Theatre.
03The house is part of the playReal neighbours behind the wall, Rubinstein Street outside the window. The flat is not a set: Dovlatov lived here for more than thirty years — from 1944 to 1975.
04A hall for 23 guestsEvery row is the front row. Twenty-three seats — all of them close up.
05Live instrumentsAccordion, trumpet and guitar — vintage, and played by the actors themselves, a metre from you. There is no backing track in the play. Theatres where the actors are also musicians can be counted on one hand in this city.
06People travel for thisThe play has been performed in Pushkinskiye Gory, where Dovlatov led tours, and at city festivals. Guests travel to apartment 34 specially for it from other regions — tickets for the nine performances a year are the first to go.
Live music in a communal flat room: trumpet, accordion and guitar, guests listening half a step away
Item 023-08 · The room plays: trumpet, accordion and guitar half a step from the audience
Addressing the doubts

Why go

Stages like this can be counted on one handThe play runs in a working communal flat on Rubinstein Street — there are no other venues in St Petersburg set in genuine, lived-in housing on this scale.
Theatre came here in 2025Four productions now run in apartment 34 — the performance-tour “Don’t Say Goodbye, Call!”, “Dovlatov’s Communal Salon”, the route “Catch Dovlatov If You Can” and this evening.
Three theatres in one castThe actors come from the Maly Drama Theatre, the Bolshoi Drama Theatre and the Komissarzhevskaya Theatre — three graduates of the same studio at the Russian State Institute of Performing Arts. This cast travels beyond the flat: Pushkinskiye Gory, festivals, city events. Directed by Aneli Filippova.
The flat instead of a stageYou are in the room where Dovlatov wrote and argued with Brodsky — within the original walls, not a set. The action takes place by the green tiled stove — in Dovlatov’s day it was lit. As Elena Dovlatova recalls, in the heat of a quarrel he threw his manuscripts into the stove, and she pulled them out of the fire. Nobody builds that for a premiere. After the play the whole flat becomes the venue: the neighbours welcome the guests, and you walk through the rooms — three rooms and three corridors, more than half of the communal flat.
Live music, not a backing trackAccordion, trumpet and guitar — vintage instruments, played by the actors themselves. A rarity even on big stages; in a room for twenty-three, you feel it on your skin.

«Nine performances a year and twenty-three chairs. Most people hear about this play once the tickets are gone».

Stills from the play 1 / 6
  • A white shirt on a wardrobe door, two actors laughing by the window
    The shirt — the first of the three things
  • An actor with a trumpet at Dovlatov’s typewriter, the trumpet’s shadow on the map
    Trumpet, typewriter and a shadow on the map
  • Three men with a guitar singing by the window
    House concert
  • Two actors laughing on stools in the writer’s room
    Laughter in the front row
  • An actor in a jumper leaning forward on a line
    Mid-scene
  • The green tiled stove with candles and porcelain figurines
    The tiled stove where the action takes place

What the evening is made of

The plot is the packing. Young people are leaving for another country, and the whole past fits into one suitcase. In Dovlatov’s «The Suitcase» there are eight things — in the play, three: the shirt, the hat, the gloves. Three things — three fates. As they pack, the stories come back — funny, bitter, absurd — and one flows into the next, like an evening nobody wants to bring to an end.

The music in the play is live. Accordion, trumpet and guitar — vintage, played by the actors themselves, a metre from the audience: there is no backing track, and every evening sounds slightly different.

Between the scenes — the communal corridor, the kitchen where everything was talked over, and the shared lavatory you cannot walk past. The route of the play follows the route of an ordinary morning in this flat — only instead of the tenants, it is someone else’s life, packed in a suitcase, that walks it. And if you would rather live the flat than watch it — the same rooms host the immersive tour-performance «No goodbyes — call me!».

«At the bottom — Karl Marx. On the lid — Brodsky. And between them — a lost, priceless, one and only life».

Sergei Dovlatov, «The Suitcase», 1986

Who staged it and who performs

Three graduates of Yuri Krasovsky’s studio at the Russian State Institute of Performing Arts: Egor Averin — Maly Drama Theatre, Theatre of Europe; Maxim Kleimenov — Bolshoi Drama Theatre; Mark Krasilnikov — V. F. Komissarzhevskaya Theatre. Together they perform in the street project «Poetry Around the Corner», and they take «What have I earned?» beyond the flat too: the play has been performed in Pushkinskiye Gory, where Dovlatov worked as a tour guide, and at city festivals. Bringing these stages together for one evening is usually a festival’s job; here it is simply the cast. The play was staged by Aneli Filippova — a director from the same studio.

You are met by the flat’s keepers: the museum is run by Ivan Eikhenbaum and partners, for whom this communal flat is not a set but a place they look after every day.

Twenty-three seats is not about economy, it is about distance. Dovlatov does not carry in a bigger hall: his intonation works only when the actor is half a step from you and someone really does live behind the wall.

Egor Averin, actor in the play «What have I earned?»: black-and-white studio portrait
EgorAverinactor, maly drama theatrepersonal file →
Mark Krasilnikov, actor in the play «What have I earned?»: black-and-white studio portrait
MarkKrasilnikovactor, komissarzhevskaya theatrepersonal file →
Maxim Kleimenov, actor in the play «What have I earned?»: black-and-white studio portrait
MaximKleimenovactor, bolshoi drama theatrepersonal file →
Aneli Filippova, director of the play «What have I earned?»: black-and-white studio portrait
AneliFilippovadirectorpersonal file →
Inventory
Case No. 34Play
Ticket
2495 ₽
When
9 performances a year
Meeting point
at the Dovlatov monument — 23 Rubinstein Street; we go up to the flat all together at the start
Duration
about an hour
Audience
23 guests — every row is the front row
Age
adults and teenagers
What is included
the play, followed by about 20 minutes through apartment 34: three rooms and three corridors, the neighbours welcome the guests
Payment
full prepayment on the website — via SBP or in instalments with Yandex Split; receipt by email
Refund
cancel 24 hours ahead of the start for a full refund
Enquiries

Frequently asked questions

Who is this evening for?
Those looking for a warm evening, live conversation and nostalgia for Leningrad life: the songs with guitar and accordion here are real, and so are the neighbours behind the wall. Those who want a genuine, one-of-a-kind experience — a play in a real lived-in communal flat, not a set. And, of course, Dovlatov’s readers, though reading in advance is not required: a story about packing a life into one suitcase is clear to anyone who has ever left.
Will I have to take part?
No. «What have I earned?» is a play, not a route: the actors, half a step away, address the audience and sometimes invite someone into a scene — only those who respond themselves; you can simply watch. The conversation comes after: the neighbours welcome the guests, and for about 20 minutes you walk through the rooms of the flat, where you can ask about anything.
Is the staircase steep?
Yes. This is a residential building of 1912 and the staircase is original — rubble-stone steps, comfortable enough to climb; there is a lift in the stairwell, but the thresholds and narrow doorways are still there. If any of your party finds it hard going, write to hello@dovlatovmuseum.ru in advance and we will give you the details.
How do I give a visit as a gift?
Easily. Write to hello@dovlatovmuseum.ru or call +7 931 109-12-35 — we will agree a date, book the visit in the name of the person you are giving it to and send you a confirmation you will not be ashamed to slip into an envelope. A ticket for the play is paid in full on the website: via SBP or in instalments with Yandex Split. The receipt and ticket arrive by email; cancel 24 hours ahead of the start for a full refund. The simplest route is the gift certificate «A Telegram Invitation»: a summons in the recipient’s name, ready within the day.
What if you are running late?
We start on time and can wait about five minutes. Longer, unfortunately, is not possible: there is no way to walk into the middle of a scene in a room where twenty-three guests are already in their places, within arm’s reach of the actors. Better to arrive with time to spare.
Where do we meet? Can we go up to the flat early?
We gather at the Dovlatov monument in front of 23 Rubinstein Street. Please wait by the monument even if you arrive early: before the start the flat is being set for the play, and at the start the guests are taken upstairs all together.
Can I take photographs?
Before the start and afterwards — yes. During the play — no: you will be too close to the actors, and a flash or a screen will throw off both them and those beside you. The residents’ rooms stay closed — people live behind the wall.
Is it suitable for children?
It is an intimate evening format for adults and teenagers. If you are planning to come with a child, write to us in advance — we will tell you whether it is worth it.
Can I book a private performance?
Yes — and it is a separate format. A company event, a private evening for your own circle, a gathering of friends: we close the museum for your group and play «What have I earned?» for you alone. Up to 23 guests, almost any date and time — by arrangement, priced for the whole room (details on the page for companies). Write to hello@dovlatovmuseum.ru or call +7 931 109-12-35 — we will put the evening together for you.
Is there a toilet for guests?
Unfortunately, no: the toilet is in the residential part of the flat — that is the residents’ area, and the museum has no access to it. Fitting a separate toilet in the museum part is not permitted under the regulations for a residential building. The cafés on Rubinstein Street will help out — there are dozens around.
How do I pay for the ticket?
Full prepayment on the website — 2495 ₽ via SBP or in instalments with Yandex Split; the receipt and ticket arrive by email; your seat is secured at once, and the ticket comes by email. Cancel 24 hours ahead of the start for a full refund — guaranteed.
Witness Statements

What the audience says

4.8 out of 5 — the museum’s rating on Yandex Maps · the auditorium is the writer’s room, 23 guests
«A stunning production in the extraordinarily beautiful, authentic interior of Dovlatov’s room. The moment you open the door you are immersed in a warm, cosy space where the eye wants to catch every smallest detail, to look over the ‘earned’ things, the vintage, the antiques and the gorgeous old wallpaper. And if you are inclined to carry a sketchbook, it will certainly come in handy here: from the first steps you want to draw the old objects and capture all the patterns on paper. That is as far as the atmosphere goes: you want to immerse yourself in it, to feel it, to stay in it.

The play is an absorbing production that does not let you take your eyes off the actors; the liveliness, naturalness and simplicity are charming, the musical accompaniment envelops you, and the acting will leave no one indifferent.

Three things — three fates. Interesting and sensual stories. Nerve, freedom, love — that is what runs through the play.

Come to enjoy the warm atmosphere and lose yourself for a while within the walls of an old communal flat in very good company».
entry 01Kristina · Yandex Maps
«We came for impressions of our favourite writer’s life, but got much more. Simply stunning — both the flat itself and how it is done».
entry 02Yandex Maps
«For a living, honest, relevant Dovlatov — come here. You can see that for each of the actors the story is personal; realising that all of this is still about us today is both pleasant and bitter. Besides, here theatre steps out of the black box — step out of your own boxes too, and open your hearts to the fine experience of young creativity and eternal themes!»
entry 03audience member
«The actors managed to convey a man’s inner turmoil and help us come into contact with his hard choice. Young and talented lads: they act, and you can see they enjoy it».
entry 04Mikhail Apfelbaum · Yandex Maps
Press

Theatre in this flat — in the city press

A stage in a lived-in communal flat is a rarity, and one that gets written about. Kommersant shot a photo report at an immersive performance in the flat during the «D Day» festival, Sobaka.ru covered the launch of tour-performances in the communal flat, and the city’s TV channels aired stories from these rooms. «What have I earned?» is played on that same stage — in the writer’s room.

Direct

Why book direct

Official websiteYou book directly with the museum — your request goes straight to the keepers, with no intermediaries.
Museum price2495 ₽ — no intermediary commission.
Refund guaranteeThe ticket is paid at booking — and refunded in full if you cancel 24 hours before the start.
For your group only

The play as a private performance

A corporate event, a private evening for your own circle, a gathering of friends. The museum closes for your group, and «What have I earned?» is played for you alone.

Up to 23 guests. The date and time are yours

The same actors, the same writer’s room, the same neighbours behind the wall — and not a single stranger in the audience. Almost any day and hour by arrangement: a morning before opening, an evening after closing. The price is for the whole room, not per guest: details on the page for companies. We reply the same day.

Guests up to 23Time by arrangementLive music bayan, trumpet, guitar
Come

Nine evenings a year. Twenty-three seats. The door opens by booking.

The play is performed in apartment 34 at 23 Rubinstein Street — in the very centre of St Petersburg

Full prepayment on the website — via SBP or Yandex Split, receipt by email · cancel 24 hours ahead for a full refund

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