Secrets of Leningrad
Communal Apartments

A grand tour of three genuine Leningrad communal flats. Dovlatov’s flat is the main one here — but he would be the first to point out that the neighbours are no less interesting.
- The gramophone — wind it up yourself, in the room where Brodsky and Rein were guests.
- A “bone record” — hold it: forbidden music cut onto an X-ray plate.
- A 1910s light switch in the time-capsule room — flick it: the room stood locked for thirty years.
★ 4.84 out of 5 · 2793 reviews on Tripster
All formatsPrepayment — 0 ₽, payment at the meeting point · rescheduling and cancellation — free
Only want apartment 34 — the museum tour is for you.








«I’m sick of spotless, tidied-up museum-apartments with their sterile little belongings. Here you can touch and move everything — people really did live exactly like this».

What to expect
A Leningrad communal flat is neither a stage set nor a metaphor. It is a pre-revolutionary flat with stucco mouldings and a grand layout, which in the era of consolidation was carved up into rooms and filled with people who were strangers to each other. The mouldings stayed; the queue for the lavatory became shared.
Why go
«These are lived-in flats: once the group is full, booking closes. There are no spare chairs in a communal flat».

How the route works
The first door is a lived-in communal flat: the back stairs lead not into a corridor but straight into the kitchen, as they were built for the servants. Then a room with five-metre ceilings, a stove and a bay window. You will learn what an «ofonarevshaya» flat is, how kitchen duty is handed over and where the largest communal flat in the city is.
The second is apartment 34 on Rubinstein Street, where Dovlatov grew up. A room of almost forty square metres where Brodsky and Rein were guests: you can wind up the gramophone, examine the first Soviet television set and a pre-war telephone up close, and hold a «bone record» in your hands. Among the rarities: Dovlatov’s first book, published in America in 1977, underground samizdat of Akhmatova, émigré journals with early publications by Dovlatov and Brodsky, and an inscription on the wall, probably left by the writer’s mother.
Next door is the time-capsule room: it stood abandoned for thirty years and has only just been opened. Inside, a pre-revolutionary way of life: a 1910s light switch you can flick yourself, a ship’s lamp, layers of early-twentieth-century newspapers under the wallpaper and stamps with the double-headed eagle under the carpet. And the studio of the artist Tatiana Mileant: the guide will tell the story of its owner and how her belongings came back to the room.
Between the houses: front stairwells with old stained glass and Mettlach tiles, back stairs, courtyard wells lit by a scrap of sky — not transitions but a change of mood, like a cut in a film. The finale is a two-level grand apartment in a baroque mansion. On this route Dovlatov’s flat is not a museum behind glass but one of the doors: that is more honest — he himself was one of the tenants here, not an exhibit.
He would step out onto Rubinstein Street «as if into his own corridor»: even in autumn, in a towelling dressing gown and corduroy slippers on bare feet, he would walk to the corner of Liteiny and Nevsky and stand at the bus stop. This was his salon: people came up to him with manuscripts, to repay a debt or borrow, to discuss gossip and high literature. That is how Anastasia Printseva, director of the «D Day» festival, described it to Komsomolskaya Pravda for the writer’s 85th anniversary.
«The Cherkasovs lived in a government house on Kronverkskaya Street. We lived in a communal flat on Rubinstein Street».
Who meets you
The tour is led by a professional accredited guide — one of those for whom these flats are not a work location but a place they look after every day. Historians, art historians, St Petersburg enthusiasts: they live for what they do and for four years now have been making guests and locals fall in love with the city.
People still live behind the wall. So everything is by booking only, and with respect for those who are simply at home here.
- Ticket
- 1295 ₽ — the same price as on booking platforms
- When
- daily — 13:00, 16:00 and 19:00
- Meeting point
- at the exit of Zvenigorodskaya metro station — exact spot in your confirmation
- Duration
- about 2 hours
- Group
- up to 10 people on weekdays, up to 15 at weekends
- Age
- from age 7
- What is included
- the tour and entry to three flats, including apartment 34
- Payment
- on site, no prepayment
- Rescheduling and cancellation
- free of charge — an email or a call is enough
- Directions
- Get directions →
- Booking
- Choose a date →
Frequently asked questions
Is the staircase steep?
How do I give a visit as a gift?
What if you are running late?
Can I take photos?
Is it suitable for children?
Is there a toilet?
How do I get to the meeting point?
How do I pay for the visit?
What guests say
«We have lived in St Petersburg for ten years now, but it was only now that we learnt so much that was new and unexpected».
«The guide was like Virgil: first he cast us down into the hell of a destitute communal flat, and then raised us up to the greatness of Dovlatov».
«We were allowed to look at and touch everything in the flats, even play the piano — and they wound up the gramophone for us too. A group of 10: everyone could see and hear, and it was not cramped».
«And what can one say about Dovlatov’s room… It is worth going there — you will certainly understand his work better. There is no way to get into these flats on your own».
«This was one of the most powerful tours of our whole trip to St Petersburg. The communal flat comes across not as a museum but as living history: absolute authenticity, no embellishment, no staging».
Guest reviews
A very interesting, unhurried walk through the communal flats + the museum; you can calmly look at everything and ask whatever you want to know
It was not a classic quick sightseeing tour of the "ran in, took a quick look, ran on" kind, but a truly atmospheric walk. On a weekday afternoon there were only 3 of us.
Thanks to our guide Alexandra
We went as a group of 6 to Dovlatov’s museum-apartment! Superbly organised: they sent a reminder, met us, and showed and told us everything in a really interesting way. A big special thank-you to our guide Alexei for the emotions and for immersing us in the subject! And the atmosphere, the spirit of the communal flat👍 as if we had travelled back in time!
Tour on 19.09.26. Three communal flats. Guide: Andrei. Everything on time. The first room, Lyokha’s, is simply brutal — it is impossible to believe that people in St Petersburg still live in such awful conditions: the smells, the dirt and a kind of hopelessness. The second apartment was bought back by a grandson in memory of his grandfather (I forgot the surname). It is fine there: the furnishings, the things, everything from the USSR era — real nostalgia, since I was born in the Soviet Union myself. The third room is where Sergei Dovlatov lived. There are few of his genuine belongings, as Andrei told us: a soda siphon, a wardrobe and, I think, a record player. Interesting, unusual, I recommend a visit.
I took the tour of the three flats. I loved it! A good, easy-going guide who tells it with real enthusiasm. The first (roughest) communal flat left an indelible impression; Dovlatov's flat and the home of the Soviet well-off are curious too. I recommend it.
The group is small, and two hours pass without tiring you out. All good. Thank you to the guide!
I enjoyed the tour. Our guide Aleksandra explained everything in detail and answered our questions. I recommend going. Nothing to fault.
We took the tour of Leningrad communal flats and had a great time. Our guide Maria told us so much of interest about the three places we visited. Maria puts things across very easily, with jokes and curious facts along the way, which wins you over completely. We will certainly come back to the Dovlatov Museum — perhaps there will be new walking routes by then
A wonderful tour and a wonderful guide. I walked through 3 communal flats in St Petersburg. Full of atmosphere and very interesting!) I recommend it
An excellent tour, moving from place to place.
We visited 3 flats of different kinds; the guide's historical commentary really helps you put together a picture of the daily lives of different people in different flats.
We loved it!
My first time in Dovlatov’s flat — well done, they have recreated the whole setting of the Soviet era. I saw so many things from my childhood (got nostalgic 😥). Our guide Aleksandra is a star! She told and showed us everything, and we also walked through the Petersburg courtyards! Thank you.
Our group had a superb guide — Aleksei — many thanks to him for his involvement and his wish to tell us in detail about the life of a writer dear to me, Sergei Dovlatov, and his neighbours of that time. It was very interesting! There is one caveat, though: if badly dilapidated interiors and hanging, torn layers of dusty wallpaper are not quite your vibe, it may not be for you: the worn, very dusty, at times frightening setting is very impressive, and not in the best way. Nothing has been washed or tidied since those days. Just be prepared and calm, because behind the mood and involvement of the guides this oppressive decay is dulled a little)
We go to a lot of museums, and museum-flats too, but this one is especially beautiful. Aleksei is a very interesting storyteller, and there are so many details in the flat you want to look at… just super. Now we will come to your plays!
Huge thanks for an interesting, intimate, very emotional tour of Sergei Dovlatov’s flat and the courtyards around it. To our guide Maria — for the creative approach and the love of Dovlatov and of Piter! Thank you from the heart!!!
Yesterday I went on a tour of the Dovlatov house-museum. In a word, a dream come true. Complete immersion in the era, thanks both to the museum itself and to the guide Maria Valieva, whose storytelling you could simply lose yourself in. Time flew by unnoticed.
For fans of Dovlatov’s work and not only — the atmosphere of the communal flats and their residents, the creative spirit, the family history, the writer’s courtyards and school, the atmosphere of a passing era — a must-visit 👍📝
Our great guide Maria told us the story of the flat and the neighbourhood where Dovlatov lived, and spoke about the writer’s family and neighbours. In places funny, in places sad and tragic.
I recommend the tour about communal flats + Dovlatov’s flat. Very interesting both to listen to and to look at! Thank you to our guide Aleksandra. We booked on the official Dovlatov Museum website.
really liked the tour. the children, 10, 13 and 14, were very interested and asked questions. the youngest is 3, he fell asleep halfway through the tour at the second location, luckily we could sit on the chairs and sofas. though he liked it too and remembered the guide’s name))
An excellent tour, Eduard is a wonderful storyteller, he answered all our questions; it was interesting to see both a working communal flat and a flat of the elite of the past. I can recommend this tour to anyone interested in St Petersburg from the everyday-life angle, as well as to Dovlatov fans. On your own, of course, there is no way to get into these flats — thank you for the opportunity!
The highlight of the programme is, without doubt, Aleksei, a resident of a communal flat; I will not show photos of his flat, it is a person’s private space after all, but you can read a lot of information from it. A separate plus for winding up and listening to the gramophone in the flat of the Soviet elite. I also formed my own opinion of Dovlatov; I would not have taken an interest in the life of a dissident on my own, but since we had come in, of course I listened. I will note separately that you can touch everything, pick things up,
We plunged into the typical communal life of St Petersburg, and in 3 of its versions at that, from the most dreadful to the quite civilised; we went into a two-level flat fitted out in Soviet "luxe", and visited Sergei Dovlatov’s apartment. Aleksei is a very interesting storyteller, knows the subject of the tour and is ready to answer any question. I recommend a visit.
Thanks to our guide Aleksei for a very interesting walk through the communal flats of St Petersburg. Especially the places where people really do still live....it is, of course, wild and a bit creepy and very interesting all at once! great tour, I recommend it!
A splendid tour! Eduard is an excellent guide 👍🏻 He knows a great deal, tells it in an interesting and emotional way, we really liked it! We were allowed to look at and touch everything in the flats, even play the piano, and Eduard wound up the gramophone for us too 😁. A convenient group format of 10 people, everyone could see and hear, it was not cramped. Very comfortable. True, we moved between the flats along the street a bit too fast 🙂, we would have liked it a little slower. I highly recommend this tour to anyone who wants atmospheric places and vivid impressions 👍🏻 Well done, guys!
an excellent, educational tour! inexpensive , but very informative and unusual: we visited three flats: one inhabited communal flat, the museum-apartment of S. Dovlatov, and a large flat from the early 20th century. an immersion in the history and everyday life of that time and, to our shock, of the present day ( I remind you, the first flat is inhabited). special thanks to our guide Aleksandra for an interesting account!
A very interesting tour, many thanks to Aleksei! We have lived in St Petersburg for 10 years, but we learnt so much that was new! We wanted to learn more about tenement houses, because we live in one ourselves and cannot work out all its oddities. We got answers to all our questions, visited exotic communal flats - casts of history and of the present day, and as a bonus - Dovlatov’s room, steeped in the atmosphere of that time. Aleksei is a very inquisitive, erudite guide, with a vivid and engaging manner of telling! We were impressed!
Thanks to the organisers for a wonderful tour. It had everything: a frosty sunny day, the beauty of the building façades, courtyard-wells, front staircases and back stairs, inhabited communal flats with their characteristic smell, setting and live insects, museum-apartments with genuine furniture and household objects of those times, and a most interesting account from our lovely guide Marie. The time flew by unnoticed and was interesting.
An excellent tour. Our guide was Aleksei, special thanks to him for the splendid delivery of the material; he knows the answers to every question, you can see the man is passionate about what he does, talking about each flat with pleasure) the group was small, so everyone moved about and fitted in comfortably. I will gladly recommend it to friends and to visitors to St Petersburg!
For people born in the USSR it will be less interesting than for today’s young people - millennials and zoomers, who absolutely must go on this tour. We were impressed! Very interesting and unusual! Original flats with real residents. You will hear stories about former tenants and visit the building where Dovlatov lived. You will touch things from pre-revolutionary times. We went with our 10-year-old daughter. The child saw many things and household objects of that time, which is important for development and for learning history. She found it interesting! The guide presented the material in a light and accessible format, not for a minute will you be bored! I recommend going on this tour.
An interesting and educational tour. The communal flat is a phenomenon that draws interest 1) as something gone from the forgotten Soviet past and 2) as the given reality of a great many present-day residents of St Petersburg. I especially enjoyed the view from three positions (three flats): something frightening, something intriguing, something impressive. The most depressing impression, of course, is made by the first flat - Maxim Gorky and his 'The Lower Depths' in the flesh. Our guide Aleksei is a wonderful guide (erudite and emotional).
This was an excellent and very educational tour that leaves a strong impression. What we liked most: · Our guide Andrei is simply a wonderful storyteller! He led the narrative in a very interesting and engaging way. He answered all our questions competently and in detail, and thanks to his answers we understood the subject far more deeply. · A unique experience. After the tour you truly realise that living in a communal flat in today’s world is terrible discomfort. This is not just an abstract phrase but a real feeling that stays with you after what you have seen. · Maximum clarity. We were taken round three different flats, each completely unlike the others, which let us see this life from different sides. · Clear organisation. Everything began exactly on time, for which special thanks to Andrei and to every member of the group for their punctuality. In short: a very powerful, atmospheric and informative tour. I definitely recommend it to anyone who wants not just to learn about, but to feel for themselves, one of the striking phenomena of St Petersburg life. Many thanks to Andrei for such a deep and humane account!
This is one of the best tours - in a single walk you learn all about the life of the different classes of St Petersburg, see the reverse side of Grand St Petersburg) look at and find out how people live in these flats today
We liked the tour,I did not even expect such an impression,we discussed it for a long time afterwards ,it was also interesting that the guide led us through the passages between the buildings,where we could also contemplate some very interesting little courtyards.
I really liked the tour. I visited 3 communal flats, each interesting in its own way. The greatest interest was the apartment of the writer Dovlatov. Our guide Vladislav talked about each room in the apartment in a very interesting and engaging way and answered all our questions. I recommend taking this tour and soaking up the atmosphere of St Petersburg of the last century.
Special thanks to Maria! Very charming and friendly. A very lively account, with a twist. As for the subject itself and the things to look at, well, there are simply no words, fire. Those who have lived in a communal flat will shudder at the memories; those who do not know this ‘delight’ will feel it to the full. And the tour is well structured - from the lowest depths to luxury. We enjoyed it enormously! I recommend it!
One of the most interesting and unusual tours I have been on. The tour was led by Vladislav, an excellent storyteller, absorbed in his work and deeply interested in the subject. We visited three flats, very different, each with its own colour. I will definitely recommend the tour to all my friends!
I went on the tour with my daughter (16). The aim was to show her what communal flats are. Together with the historical context it made a perfect combo. I am pleased, my daughter is pleased. As a bonus I saw the inside of the Nikonov mansion (the gingerbread house). Maria is an excellent guide; she tries to give attention to every participant and to answer every question asked.
I suspected such flats still existed, but I was still unprepared for what I saw in the first flat. What a contrast between the grand face of St Petersburg outside and the inside of some of its buildings... But interesting, 100%!
An excellent tour! We enjoyed it very much, and a huge part of that was, of course, our wonderful, charismatic guide Maria. There was no feeling of someone saying the same thing for the hundredth time, which matters a lot 🌹. The storytelling was very vivid — I really felt like a wretched resident going down the back stairs into a courtyard-well on a dark, dark night😀 She clearly knows her history and the way Petersburgers lived in different eras. The communal flats themselves struck us to the core, especially the first one, which gathered up all our worst expectations 😀 In fact, that was exactly the kind of exotica we wanted. I would only say there were rather a lot of people; 10+ in small rooms and corridors was already a bit cramped.
Hello! We took the tour with my teenage son. Both of us found it extremely interesting. We learned many curious facts, saw working communal flats of different social strata, and also visited the museum-apartment of my favourite writer, Sergei Dovlatov. Our guide Maria told the story in a very engaging way and answered all our questions. Photos and video were allowed. Very good, thank you very much
My husband and I went on the tour on 09 August! Maria led it. Overall we liked everything! The duration was 2:20. The time flew by unnoticed. We saw several communal flats, one in contrast with another. We liked that our group was small — it was comfortable both to listen and to look around the rooms. There was a nice bonus in the form of a ginger cat in Dovlatov’s room😅🥰
On 07.08.2025 my 13-year-old child and I took the Leningrad Communal Flats tour. The tour was led by the guide Aleksei. Very good delivery of the material, everything in detail, with excellent knowledge of the subject of the tour and of history in general. The tour went by in one breath. We visited 3 communal flats created in different periods. I recommend this tour
A very interesting tour. The locations are unusual and immerse you completely in the life of ordinary people in St Petersburg. Aleksei spoke about each communal flat with such love, such warmth. We were left with the most positive impressions.
An excellent tour! I enjoyed it enormously! I had long wanted to get inside the residential buildings in the centre of St Petersburg and never expected to see such interesting flats. From the dreadful atmosphere of a grim communal flat to a lavish restored apartment! The little room of the old lady and the artist was also very impressive — total immersion in the early last century! Many thanks to the organisers!
Aleksei spoke very interestingly about the everyday life of communal flat residents. We visited three flats: the first looked the most authentic and even dispiriting, the second works as a museum with a great many things you want to look at, and the third is in a building of stunning beauty.
A very interesting tour!! The very first flat - goosebumps! After visiting all the flats and buildings - my understanding of St Petersburg’s housing and of life before the revolution was turned upside down… simply thank you!!!
Our guide was Aleksei - a man very passionate about what he does. We greatly enjoyed talking with him; he answers any question gladly and with attention to detail! It turned out a very colourful walk — in every flat there was something to marvel at. I know a lot about the subject myself, but respect to Aleksei for the immersion 👌 I definitely recommend the tour! Anyone interested in St Petersburg’s past, anyone who wants to understand how people lived in communal flats - welcome)
Really liked the tour! It will suit anyone who likes to study how people lived and live, Soviet history and the particulars of running a household. Very atmospheric and full of interesting facts. The guide told it beautifully. Many things in the flats can be touched, which immerses you in the era even more. Definitely recommend! A nostalgic mood for the older generation is guaranteed
Yesterday we took the communal flats tour. The aim was to show my mum and my nephew the cultural-communal life of St Petersburg. As it is. And it worked. Mum is still impressed) We started with the trashiest location and finished with an atmospheric tenement house at 11 Kolokolnaya Street. Huge thanks to our guide Masha, she is great! Funny, tells a lot and tells it well! We liked absolutely everything. The way the information is presented, the way the route is built. Definitely recommend! For guests and residents of St Petersburg alike — many, after all, live in new-build dormitory districts and have only heard of communal flats, so they need to see one) Thank you!
A good tour of St Petersburg’s communal flats. Very absorbing and interesting. The tour is full of interesting information on the history of communal flats, the state they are in now, and why it is all the way it is. We saw three kinds of communal flat, depending on the residents’ level of means. Thank you for the tour 🙏🏻
Our guide was Andrei, Andrei is super! We liked everything: the 3 sites themselves, the way Andrei told it, well and interestingly, and how he engaged with the group. We are locals, but we will definitely come again for another tour with you. We are crawling out of our dormitory districts with our teenage kids)))
It was interesting to see the other side of the coin of St Petersburg. when you are tired of the classic tours and think nothing can surprise you any more, here is your chance . What hides behind the walls of the beautiful buildings, who lived and still lives in the communal flats? such different families, such different fates! Everything in this tour is built on contrast . Worth a visit ! Huge thanks to our guide Vlad.
I went on this tour last year with my child. This year I came with friends and went again with them. I would not say no to going once more next year, because every time there is something to see A very interesting tour, the guide presents the material excellently, two and a half hours flew by completely unnoticed The flats are fascinating to look around; they are filled with a huge number of things from childhood, with memories and fragments of other people’s lives. A must-visit
The most atmospheric and interesting tour for anyone who has already had their fill of grand St Petersburg! They show you the sites - a lived-in communal flat, a memorial Soviet one where Dovlatov lived, and the furnishings of a room in a tenement house. The first leaves a heavy impression, but it is great that it is about real life! You look in where you are supposedly not meant to, and that is very interesting. The Soviet communal flat is super, it has three fascinating rooms. Effectively an unofficial museum. The third site seemed less interesting, but it has unique things: a pre-revolutionary ceiling and doorbell, for example. Definitely recommend, for a tour like this the money is well spent!
Our tour of St Petersburg’s communal flats was led by the guide Aleksei. He revealed the life of "non-grand" St Petersburg wonderfully and helped us understand the city and its life better. I got so interested that I combed through a pile of books on the subject and reread Dovlatov. Thank you very much. Highly recommend
On 31 May 2025 I took the stunning tour "Leningrad Communal Flats Outside and In" with my children. What I saw left an unforgettable impression. I felt the spirit of Leningrad communal flats. The tour was led by Maria. It must be said that Maria speaks beautifully and knows many interesting and unusual facts about Leningrad communal flats, tenement houses and the spirit of the old city. Many thanks for the chance to touch the things of a bygone era in the Dovlatov museum. Thank you for the interesting route and the impressions.
My friend and I really liked this tour! We visited 3 communal flats: starting with the most «dreadful» one and ending with the «pricey and posh» one. We went through the whole range of emotions, heard many interesting facts, and simply had a walk. A mini-tour is just the thing to vary your tourist walks around St Petersburg. Definitely recommend seeing it!
The tour consisted of visits to three communal flats; it was curious to immerse ourselves in the atmosphere of that time. We really liked our guide Vladislav, an erudite young man, interesting and engaging to listen to; Vladislav also answered all our questions and was very attentive to us, and is simply a sweetheart — thank you, it was great👍🏼
We visited several communal flats . We saw a lot of interesting things , how people live in them now and how they lived before. We were in Dovlatov’s room , felt the spirit of that time, thanks to the old things all around. An interesting idea from the organisers , special thanks to the guide . Recommend
A super tour!! It was very interesting to see such different communal flats! We came away with masses of impressions! Our guide Maria is a star, she got the material across in an interesting way and told such interesting facts! Everything was well organised too. I will gladly come on another tour with you!
Why book direct
Three flats, three doors — and one city behind them. Opens by booking.
A grand tour of three communal flats at 23 Rubinstein Street
Prepayment — 0 ₽, payment at the meeting point · call: +7 931 109-12-35