Dovlatov Museum

Secrets of Leningrad
Communal Apartments

A row of doorbells in a Leningrad communal flat — one bell per family
three communal flats · one route
Grand tour

A grand tour of three genuine Leningrad communal flats. Dovlatov’s flat is the main one here — but he would be the first to point out that the neighbours are no less interesting.

Ticket1295 ₽
Durationabout 2 hours
Route3 flats
  • The gramophone — wind it up yourself, in the room where Brodsky and Rein were guests.
  • A “bone record” — hold it: forbidden music cut onto an X-ray plate.
  • A 1910s light switch in the time-capsule room — flick it: the room stood locked for thirty years.

★ 4.84 out of 5 · 2793 reviews on Tripster

All formats

Prepayment — 0 ₽, payment at the meeting point · rescheduling and cancellation — free

Only want apartment 34 — the museum tour is for you.

A guest’s voice
«I’m sick of spotless, tidied-up museum-apartments with their sterile little belongings. Here you can touch and move everything — people really did live exactly like this».
from a review on Yandex Maps
The blue door of a communal stairwell with a painted portrait on the wall
Item 023-11 · Blue door and portrait in the stairwell

What to expect

A Leningrad communal flat is neither a stage set nor a metaphor. It is a pre-revolutionary flat with stucco mouldings and a grand layout, which in the era of consolidation was carved up into rooms and filled with people who were strangers to each other. The mouldings stayed; the queue for the lavatory became shared.

01A lived-in communal flatThe back stairs lead straight into the kitchen; a room with five-metre ceilings, a stove and a bay window. What a «lamp-struck» flat is — you will hear from the residents themselves.
02Dovlatov’s flatA room of almost forty square metres where Brodsky and Rein were guests: the gramophone can be wound up, a «bone» record pressed on X-ray film — held, the Akhmatova samizdat — examined.
03The time-capsule roomAbandoned for thirty years and opened only just now: a 1910s light switch, a ship’s lamp, stamps with the double-headed eagle under the carpet — and the studio of the artist Tatyana Mileant.
04Finale in a grand houseBetween the houses — stairwells with stained glass and courtyard wells, like cuts in a film. The finale is a two-level grand flat with Soviet domestic life recreated.
Addressing the doubts

Why go

No other way in«There is no way to get into these flats on your own» — from a review. These doors open only for our groups.
4.84 out of 52793 reviews of this tour on Tripster — guests come back with friends.
No glossSt Petersburg as locals know it: everyday life, stories and real neighbours, not postcard façades.
No riskNo prepayment: booking is free, payment at the meeting point.

«These are lived-in flats: once the group is full, booking closes. There are no spare chairs in a communal flat».

Stained-glass window arch in an old St Petersburg front stairwell
Item 023-12 · Stained-glass window arch of a front stairwell

How the route works

The first door is a lived-in communal flat: the back stairs lead not into a corridor but straight into the kitchen, as they were built for the servants. Then a room with five-metre ceilings, a stove and a bay window. You will learn what an «ofonarevshaya» flat is, how kitchen duty is handed over and where the largest communal flat in the city is.

The second is apartment 34 on Rubinstein Street, where Dovlatov grew up. A room of almost forty square metres where Brodsky and Rein were guests: you can wind up the gramophone, examine the first Soviet television set and a pre-war telephone up close, and hold a «bone record» in your hands. Among the rarities: Dovlatov’s first book, published in America in 1977, underground samizdat of Akhmatova, émigré journals with early publications by Dovlatov and Brodsky, and an inscription on the wall, probably left by the writer’s mother.

Next door is the time-capsule room: it stood abandoned for thirty years and has only just been opened. Inside, a pre-revolutionary way of life: a 1910s light switch you can flick yourself, a ship’s lamp, layers of early-twentieth-century newspapers under the wallpaper and stamps with the double-headed eagle under the carpet. And the studio of the artist Tatiana Mileant: the guide will tell the story of its owner and how her belongings came back to the room.

Between the houses: front stairwells with old stained glass and Mettlach tiles, back stairs, courtyard wells lit by a scrap of sky — not transitions but a change of mood, like a cut in a film. The finale is a two-level grand apartment in a baroque mansion. On this route Dovlatov’s flat is not a museum behind glass but one of the doors: that is more honest — he himself was one of the tenants here, not an exhibit.

He would step out onto Rubinstein Street «as if into his own corridor»: even in autumn, in a towelling dressing gown and corduroy slippers on bare feet, he would walk to the corner of Liteiny and Nevsky and stand at the bus stop. This was his salon: people came up to him with manuscripts, to repay a debt or borrow, to discuss gossip and high literature. That is how Anastasia Printseva, director of the «D Day» festival, described it to Komsomolskaya Pravda for the writer’s 85th anniversary.

«The Cherkasovs lived in a government house on Kronverkskaya Street. We lived in a communal flat on Rubinstein Street».

Sergei Dovlatov, «The Suitcase», 1986
Svetlana Smirnova’s room, formerly Nora Dovlatova’s room — view from above: carpets, a bed and a wall of family photographs
View from above · Svetlana Smirnova’s room, 17 m² — formerly the room of Nora Dovlatova, the writer’s mother

Who meets you

The tour is led by a professional accredited guide — one of those for whom these flats are not a work location but a place they look after every day. Historians, art historians, St Petersburg enthusiasts: they live for what they do and for four years now have been making guests and locals fall in love with the city.

People still live behind the wall. So everything is by booking only, and with respect for those who are simply at home here.

Guide Aleksei Akimtsev: black-and-white portrait, smiling, in a museum room with old portraits
AlekseiAkimtsevhistorian
Guide Maria Valieva: black-and-white portrait at a desk with manuscripts by the window
MariaValievastage director
Guide Eduard Trundaev: black-and-white portrait in a polo neck and jacket in a museum room
EduardTrundaevhistorian
Guide Aleksandra Atakova: black-and-white portrait in a tweed jacket in a room with old portraits
AleksandraAtakovaphilologist
Guide Maria Kulizhnikova: black-and-white portrait in a bright room with bookcases and display cases
MariaKulizhnikovahistorian
Guide Andrei Deev: black-and-white portrait in glasses by the bookcases
AndreiDeevactor
Inventory
Case No. 34Big tour
Ticket
1295 ₽ — the same price as on booking platforms
When
daily — 13:00, 16:00 and 19:00
Meeting point
at the exit of Zvenigorodskaya metro station — exact spot in your confirmation
Duration
about 2 hours
Group
up to 10 people on weekdays, up to 15 at weekends
Age
from age 7
What is included
the tour and entry to three flats, including apartment 34
Payment
on site, no prepayment
Rescheduling and cancellation
free of charge — an email or a call is enough
Enquiries

Frequently asked questions

Is the staircase steep?
Yes. This is a residential building from 1912; the quarry-stone steps are original and comfortable to climb; there is a lift in the entrance hall, but the thresholds and narrow doorways are still there. If it will be hard for one of the guests, write ahead to hello@dovlatovmuseum.ru — we will advise on the details.
How do I give a visit as a gift?
Easily. Write to hello@dovlatovmuseum.ru or call +7 931 109-12-35 — we will agree a date, book the visit in the name of the person you are giving it to, and send you a confirmation you will not be ashamed to put in an envelope. Payment on the spot on the day of the visit, no prepayment. The simplest way is the gift certificate «A Telegram Invitation»: a named invitation, ready within a day.
What if you are running late?
Call us — the group can wait about five minutes. If you are running later than that, we will tell you where on the route to join it. Best to set out with a little time to spare.
Can I take photos?
Yes, but not in the lived-in rooms — people live behind these walls. Commercial filming by arrangement with the museum administration.
Is it suitable for children?
Children from age 7 — yes. Younger we do not recommend: the route is long and the corridors are narrow.
Is there a toilet?
Unfortunately not: the flats on the route are lived in, and their lavatories belong to the residents. Regulations for residential buildings do not allow us to fit a guest lavatory. The route runs through the very centre — cafés along the way will help.
How do I get to the meeting point?
We meet at the exit of Zvenigorodskaya metro station; the exact spot and time come in your booking confirmation. We do not publish the addresses of the lived-in flats on the route — people live behind these walls.
How do I pay for the visit?
Payment is at the meeting point on the day of the visit, no prepayment. Rescheduling or cancelling a booking is free.
Witness Statements

What guests say

4.84 out of 5 — average rating for this tour · 2793 reviews on Tripster
«We have lived in St Petersburg for ten years now, but it was only now that we learnt so much that was new and unexpected».
entry 01Yandex Maps
«The guide was like Virgil: first he cast us down into the hell of a destitute communal flat, and then raised us up to the greatness of Dovlatov».
entry 02Yandex Maps
«We were allowed to look at and touch everything in the flats, even play the piano — and they wound up the gramophone for us too. A group of 10: everyone could see and hear, and it was not cramped».
entry 03Tripster
«And what can one say about Dovlatov’s room… It is worth going there — you will certainly understand his work better. There is no way to get into these flats on your own».
entry 04Tripster
«This was one of the most powerful tours of our whole trip to St Petersburg. The communal flat comes across not as a museum but as living history: absolute authenticity, no embellishment, no staging».
entry 05Yandex Maps
Direct

Why book direct

Official websiteYou book directly with the museum — your request goes straight to the keepers, with no intermediaries.
Same price — no prepayment1295 ₽, as on the platforms, but there is nothing to pay now: payment at the meeting point.
Rescheduling and cancellation — freePlans changed — an email or a phone call is enough.
Come

Three flats, three doors — and one city behind them. Opens by booking.

A grand tour of three communal flats at 23 Rubinstein Street

Prepayment — 0 ₽, payment at the meeting point · call: +7 931 109-12-35

Grand tour · 1295 ₽ Choose a date